Feeling at Home in Cologne

By Mary Casey-Sturk

Late last fall, my cousin Sally and I had a travel adventure. We traveled on the Eurostar from London to Lille in France, then onward to Brussels, Belgium and Cologne, Germany via other trains. Staying at budget hotels, getting lost a time or two and indulging in Belgium waffles, patisserie, chocolates and more-with a few vegetables thrown in from time to time, it was a grand time!

At each city, we visited Christmas markets and enjoyed an array of holiday lights and Christmas trees that had the cities glowing.

Cologne (Köln in German) is home to many Christmas markets as well as the amazing Cologne Cathedral.  This landmark building is a must-see for its history and High Gothic architecture.  Begun in 1248, the construction of this masterpiece took place in several stages and was completed in 1880. Inside the Cathedral, you’ll get to see many artifacts, soaring stained-glass windows, a crypt, and stunning stonework.

Located next to the main train station and near the Rhine River, it’s a popular destination with travelers coming on trains or on river cruises.

Of course, Cincinnati has deep German roots due to a large influx of immigrants during the 1800s. They built their lives here, bringing their skills and founding churches and schools. Numerous immigrants brought their brewing talents to their new home and the beer produced here is legendary.

I think the local German traditions, including markets, made me feel at home in Cologne. Though it was my first visit, the sights and sounds (and the wonderful smell of food in the markets) resonated with me.

Adjacent to the cathedral, you’ll find shopping, dining, museums, Roman ruins and more. On this trip, our sights were also set on visiting the Museum Ludwig which showcases 20^th-century art including a large collection of works by Picasso.

Museum Ludwig

A self-proclaimed “museum nerd” and long-time museum professional, I enjoy museums and try to go to as many as practical during any vacation. The Museum Ludwig was high on my list as I knew they had an impressive selection of works by both Pablo Picasso and Andy Warhol, plus I would get to see artists that I was not familiar with. As the weather was very cold and rainy on our visit, an extended stop at the museum quickly rose up our list.

I was excited to see art that was new to me, but I was thrilled when I saw some familiar names. Cincinnati names. Tom Wesselmann and Jim Dime are among my favorite contemporary artists. I was first introduced to their work at the Cincinnati Art Museum and happy to see their work embraced at the Ludwig.

Wesselmann (1931-2004) was a Cincinnati-born artist who worked in painting, sculpture and collage. He is associated with the pop art movement. You may have seen his work at the Cincinnati Art Museum’s third-floor contemporary galleries, Seascape #21 dated 1967 and they have other works in the collection (none are on display at this time and the third floor is currently closed to visitors).

After his art education, Wesselmann became one of the founding members of the Judson Gallery with other artists including fellow Cincinnatian, Jim Dine. This fabled New York City gallery was a mecca for pop artists including Robert Rauschenberg, Yoko Ono, Claes Oldenburg, and Red Grooms.

Dine (born 1935) has multiple works at the Cincinnati Art Museum and each visitor gets a visual treat when greeted by his Pinocchio (Emotional) 2007.  This massive bronze piece sits outside the main entrance where seemingly everyone poses for a photo, it’s hard not to smile in its presence. In the Cincinnati Wing of the museum, you will find his painting, Paint Acting Like a Tree.

In Germany, I was smiling in the presence of their art, and that of others. I’ve long admired the work of both artists. If you happen to be in Cologne, stop by and enjoy their art.

About the Museum Ludwig (from www.museum-ludwig.de):

Since the mid-1960s, Peter and Irene Ludwig had been devoted collectors of American Pop Art, which was still relatively unknown and revolutionary in Germany at the time and only began to attract attention from the broader public with documenta 4 in Kassel. In addition to Roy Lichtenstein’sfamous MMaybe – A Girl’s Picture (1965) and Claes Oldenburg’sSoft Washstand from the same year, Tom Wesselmann’sGreat American Nude No. 98 (1967) became part of the Ludwigs’ collection after being featured at documenta.

Today the Museum Ludwig is home to the largest collection of US-American Pop Art outside the United States. In addition to the aforementioned works, the collection includes numerous important works by Roy Lichtenstein, Marisol, Andy Warhol, Claes Oldenburg, James Rosenquist, Robert Rauschenberg and Jasper Johns. 

The Museum Ludwig is one of Europe’s leading institutions of modern and contemporary art due to its sizable collection, which includes significant works of Pop Art, German Expressionism, and photography. The museum is also home to the third-largest collection of Picassos in the world. The Museum Ludwig’s impressive collection is due to the extraordinary commitment of private collectors and donors. 

Things to do in Cologne

Visit the Cologne Cathedral

Take a panoramic sightseeing boat tour on the Rhine

Explore numerous museums including Museum Ludwig, Schokoladenmuseum Köln (chocolate museum), Wallraf-Richartz-Museum & Fondation Corboud (art), the Romano-Germanic Museum and the Farina Duft Museum (Fragrance Museum)

Spy Roman Ruins near the Cologne Cathedral

Treat yourself to upscale shopping in the city center

Wander the Old Quarter with its colorful buildings, shops and cafes at the Fischmarkt