Solo Travel: Five Hours in Belfast

Story and Photos By Mary Casey-Sturk

In the spring of last year, I had the opportunity to travel to Dublin on a long-delayed trip. As a solo traveler, I had the flexibility to create my own itinerary and adapt it according to the weather, my mood, or crowds. As I arrived just after St. Patrick’s Day, the crowds were still lively, but not overwhelming and the weather, for the most part, was quite agreeable.

During my time in Dublin, I hit all the sites on my list and took a day trip to the Boyne Valley and a quick hop to coastal Howth for its market and curious harbor seals (they did not disappoint).

As a fan of train travel, I couldn’t resist buying a ticket to ride the Enterprise for a day trip to Belfast, Northern Ireland. I’d long wanted to see Belfast and check another country off my bucket list, and this seemed like the perfect time.

The journey from Dublin’s Connolly Station to Belfast’s Central Station took about two hours and the views were great along the route, ranging from the sea to sprawling landscapes.

Once in Belfast, I realized I had no real plan of getting around and just a vague idea of what I wanted to do. While this might have annoyed a travel companion, for me, it was business as usual.

Filling up my water bottle at the station, I simply wandered outside and into a construction zone. Looking around, there were temporary walls everywhere. Looking up, there were a few clouds in the sky, but the weather was mild and I was ready for adventure and attempted to follow the detour signs.

Quite by accident, I happened upon a hop-on, hop-off bus. Love them or hate them, for me it was a convenient way of seeing the city. While some might consider these “too touristy”, today I was a tourist and ready to embrace the open top seat and the recorded narration.

As I had booked a return train ticket approximately five hours from my noon arrival, I knew my time was limited, so the bus also suited my schedule.

Hopping Off

My first stop was at the Titanic Quarter. This is where the Titanic and her sister ship, the Olympia, were built and launched by Harland & Wolff. Today’s visitor can explore the popular Titanic Belfast and learn about the history of this doomed ocean liner, the people who built it, were lost on it and the history of Harland and Wolff.  Part museum, part experience, it offers 9 interactive galleries that share the iconic story, cafes and a gift shop.

Harland & Wolff’s former office is now a hotel (the four-star Titanic Hotel Belfast) and you can opt to dine there while taking a break from visiting the other sites in the Titanic Quarter including the famed Titanic Studios (Game of Thrones). Looking toward the water, you can’t miss the two massive, yellow-painted gantry cranes (Samson and Goliath) used by Harland and Wolff and icons of Belfast, view the restored SS Nomadic which is the RMS Titanic’s tender ship and the last remaining White Star Line vessel, or just walk around and enjoy this bustling area. Time being short, I choose a quick wander.

Heading back into the city center on the bus, I was getting hungry, so I hopped off at St. George’s Market (open Friday-Sunday). There has been a market on this site since 1604 and the current building was built between 1890-1896. It was well worth the stop as I treated myself to a grilled veggie sandwich on delightful soda bread and followed it up with a baked good. Well, okay, I had two baked goods, but since I was traveling solo, there was nobody judging!  There are nearly 250 stalls offering food and goods of all sorts and live music adding to the fun. It was a great way to support local businesses and take a break.

Back on the hop-on, hop-off, I realized I had a goal in mind after all – to visit the Peace Wall. Knowing you were allowed to write a message on the wall, I was eager to do this and see what other messages were left behind. I was so moved by what I saw, messages of peace and love, tributes to lost loved ones, lost pets and some political humor. The wall, constructed in 1969 during the height of The Troubles, was described as a safety measure to separate predominantly Catholic (Falls Road) and Protestant (Shankill Road) neighborhoods. This area, straddling North and West Belfast (the Shankill), is home to many murals depicting the political and social history of the area as well as other historically significant places. I left my messages and thoughtfully returned to the bus.

Arriving back in the City Center after what seemed like hours in afternoon traffic, I left the bus where I’d started, at the impressive Belfast City Hall. Opened in 1906, the building and its grounds are lovely and you can take a self-guided tour inside to view their stained-glass windows, monuments, art and artifacts. Alas, I was too late for this, but I did explore the grounds including a reflective stop at the Titanic Memorial Garden.

My five hours over and my train back to Dublin due soon, I walked back to the station appreciating my short time in Belfast. Would I visit again? Absolutely. There is so much to do and see in Belfast that I could have easily spent fifty hours exploring. But this solo traveler had evening plans in Dublin, so I bid Belfast goodbye (for now).