Walking Through History in Cancun

Photos and story by Mary Casey-Sturk

Cancun, Mexico has long been a vacation hot spot for travelers from Cincinnati. From romantic getaways and destination weddings to spring breaks and summer vacations, it offers a little something for everyone.

For this traveler, it offers an opportunity to visit Mayan sites that have long been on my personal bucket list. The Mayan culture has fascinated me for years since I was first introduced to it at the British Museum as a child. Mayan.org shares that over 60 museums worldwide have Maya artifacts, include those I remember from my time in London with my grandmother.

Very recently, my husband and I visited Cancun and had the opportunity to visit not only important archeological sites, but museums as well.

Near the Hotel Zone

Cancun’s Hotel Zone is packed with resorts and activities. It’s also home to the Museo Maya de Cancún y Zona Arqueológica de San Miguelito. Just a short walk away from our hotel we took advantage of our location and walked to the Mayan Museum of Cancun which also has the archeology site of San Miguelito. The museum had many galleries dedicated to telling the story of the Mayan people and included hundreds of artifacts from the region. Both the stories and the objects were fascinating, and we found ourselves taking an additional turn around the galleries. With the help of very knowledgeable guards, we learned much that day and were grateful for their help. As with any site in this area, be aware that not all the labels and signage will be translated into English, but you will find enough to help understand the importance of this culture. There was also a temporary photography exhibition on display during our visit, which was unexpected but shouldn’t have been. This museum also celebrates contemporary artists in the region.  On the same grounds, you’ll find San Miguelito. A small archeological zone just steps from the main road along the hotel zone feels a bit surreal, but it’s worth visiting even if you have only a passing interest in history. Compact, mostly shaded and walkable-you’ll see a small temple and the remains of other buildings that once housed a community.

El Meco is situated just north of the Hotel Zone and across from Isla Mujeres. El Meco was once a very important trading point and much of it has been preserved. In contrast to major sites like Chichen Itza and Tulum, a visitor to El Meco will likely only encounter a handful of other visitors. On our day there, we only saw two other people (we saw around 10 people at the Mayan Museum). This is a great destination for some mindful exploration and to get some great photos.  Its main structure, El Castillo, is 40 feet high and impressive. There are multiple other structures to explore and you’re sure to see a variety of birds. As you take the bridge to the site, you’ll be treated to views of the Caribbean, Isla Mujeres and El Meco from above. Have your cameras ready.

Other sites near the hotel zone include El Rey, which is across from the famed and colorful Cancun sign at Playa Delfines. El Rey was a settlement from 250-1500 A.D. and has several structures and an abundance of wildlife, including dozens of iguanas. Get your iconic photo at the Cancun sign (bring your patience, there’s often a line) and head to over to El Ray.

If you are nearby, it’s worth a walk to see the Temple of the Scorpion (Yamil Lu’um)-a small temple located along the Hotel Zone between the Westin Lagunamar Ocean Resort Villas & Spa and Park Royal Cancun.

Bigger Sites

On this trip, I finally made it to Chichen Itza via an organized bus tour. From the Hotel Zone, it’s 2.5-3 hour ride (depending on stops) each way, but for me it was worth it. There are various trips you can pick from, some including other stops, but I chose the express journey. It allowed me just over two hours at the site.

I was in awe the minute I entered the archeological zone and saw El Castillo temple. At 98-feet high, it’s simply amazing to view this pyramid-shaped structure in person. On my trip, I benefited from having a terrific guide who explained the significance of the buildings, including the Tzompantli (the wall of skulls) a sacrificial altar, the Temple of the Eagles and Jaguars with its magnificent low reliefs representing eagles and jaguars devouring human hearts, and the ball game court, the game – Pok Ta Pok in Maya – was a ceremonial game that was played for more than 3000 years in Mesoamerica.

I learned so much about the area, the people and the rituals. A bonus is that the site has a museum housing more artifacts, many of them arriving during the recent construction of the Mayan Train (Tren Maya).  During the ride to Chichen Itza, you could see much of the train line adjacent to the highway. You can also opt to ride the train from the Cancun station (near the airport) to Chichen Itza’s station, then take a direct bus the rest of the way, alternately, ADO busses travel here. Chichen Itza has many vendors selling all sorts of items, a café, and restrooms.

From the astronomical precision of El Castillo to the Sacred Cenote, this ancient Maya city once housed a civilization that mastered astronomy, time and architecture. It is and UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. Located in the Yucatan, there are other sites nearby including Ek Balam.

Tulum, located south of Riviera Maya, was a destination I visited on a previous trip. People ask where they should visit, Tulum or Chichen Itza, and that’s hard for me to answer because both places are not only visually stunning, but also very important sites and an opportunity to learn more about the area, which I have found always enriches my visit. Tulum has stunning views of the Caribbean and the guide we had gave his tour in Spanish, English and German at the same time.  

Highlights in Tulum include the wall with guard towers, the Castillo, the most important building of the site and a landmark for navigators, and the Temple of the Frescoes. 

If you are staying in the Riviera Maya, Akumal, or Tulum areas, make sure you carve out some time for Tulum.

Coba is a site I have not visited (yet), but it’s also a popular Tulum site. You can explore on foot or by bike and it has the second highest pyramid in the peninsula. Deep in nature, Coba’s popularity has steadily increased. Another site to consider is Muyil.

A visit to Cancun provides opportunities for history both near the Hotel Zone and Riviera Maya. Whether you travel on foot, public bus, train or with an organized tour, there are multiple options and once you return to your resort, the bar and beach are waiting.

If you go:

Compare prices of tours and pick-up locations. Most will pick you up at your hotel. What does the tour include?  Other sites? Admission? Meal?

Once you’ve booked your tour, download the ticket to your phone and print out the ticket if possible. Prepare to show your ticket and ID to the tour operator.

Consider public transportation. The R-1 and R-2 buses run 24 hours a day along the Hotel Zone. The fare is 12 pesos (less than $1 USD), pay in pesos. Colectivos are another option, though fill up fast. The Mayan Train is another option, but note the stations are not central and require additional transportation to sites and to the stations. Buy train tickets in advance, lines at stations can be long and slow. Check the train schedules to be certain they accommodate enough time at sites.

Walking. If you are staying in the Hotel Zone, you can visit 2-3 sites by foot.

Chichen Itza requires an additional $35 USD fee for foreign visitors in addition to the admission ticket.

The bigger sites may be busier on Sundays as entry to museums and archaeology sites is free to Mexican nationals and legal foreign residents on Sundays.

Know your limits. Days are hot and there is a lot of walking. Wear sturdy and comfortable footwear to sites.

Watch YouTube first. There are many videos on these destinations and watching one might help you decide if you want to dedicate your time visiting. It can also help you determine if it’s too physically challenging, too touristy, or if those traveling with you might like it.

Bring: water, snacks, eco-friendly bug spray and coral reef-friendly sunblock, hat, sunglasses, tip money for tours, admission fees. Most sites take credit cards for admission. Have cash for vendors and guides. Most organized tours include guides, but if arriving on your own, guides are available at larger sites and have been trained by the site. For instance, the guide at El Meco charged 400 pesos, that’s around $24 to provide a tour.